Tuesday, January 23, 2024

1900-20: Linen & Lace

Mee, Sue. 1900-20: Linen & Lace. Part of the 20th Century Fashion series. 2002. 32p. ISBN 9780836825985. Available at 391 MEE on the library shelves.


The world was in effervescence at the beginning of the 20th century. Automobiles were filling up roads. The globe was now connected through wires, allowing messages to be distributed almost instantly. Technology was rapidly improving lives. For most, modernity represented progress and better living conditions. But then the First World War destroyed illusions that technology could only be used for the better. By the time the war ended, life had changed for everyone.

Clothes provide an image of society. At the beginning of the 20th century, most women were wearing corsets and several layers under their dresses. Clothes were meant to be seen, and displayed the wealth of person wearing them. As habits changed and marketing and advertisement became more important, clothes had to adapt, from motorist outfits to changing silhouettes and tastes. Styles from all over the world also began to appear in European and American fashion, from those inspired by orientalism to those exotic clothes of the Russian ballet. 

The war strained economies, and fashion became more practical. Uniforms were produced in the millions, and rationing shortened dresses, revealing more leg. After working in factories and elsewhere as men went to war, women had gained economic freedom and learned new skills, and the clothes of the post-war period adapted to this newly-found independence by freeing women from some of the constraints they had experienced during the war and even before. One of the most revolutionary item of clothing to emerge from this period is the bra. Invented by Caresse Crosby from two handkerchief and a ribbon, the bra freed women from the tightening confines of corsets, and allowed a wider variety of clothes to be worn while providing support at a cheaper cost.

Readers interested in the history of fashion or the social changes that affected the clothes we wear will appreciate this short volume.

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