Unretouchable

Szamosi, Sofia. Unretouchable. 2022. 152p. ISBN 9781728462929. Available in the graphic novels section of the library.

Having graduated from high school, Olive is looking for a break as she prepares to go to art school. Her mother has other ideas, however, and she tells Olive she's secured a highly sought-after internship assisting a top digital-imaging specialist in the fashion industry. Her experiences at a glamorous New York photo shoot expose her to the intricate and often manipulative world of image retouching. Olive learns the power of editing software and the secrets behind creating seemingly perfect "virtual models," and she discovers the "violent verbs" used to alter and enhance images. This behind-the-scenes look at the industry begins to affect Olive's self-image and raises ethical questions about her work.

As Olive's college years approach, she struggles with her newfound awareness of the unrealistic beauty standards the fashion industry perpetuates. She grapples with her own insecurities about her appearance and attempts to disconnect from the Internet's pervasive influence. Ultimately, Olive must find a way to reconcile her experiences with her own artistic vision and embrace image-making on her own terms, navigating the complex world of fashion photography while staying true to herself. Unretouchable offers a glimpse into this influential industry and emphasizes the importance of self-acceptance in a world of manipulated images.

The 80's and 90's: Power Dressing to Sportswear

Lomas, Clare. The 80's and 90's: Power Dressing to Sportswear. 1999. 32p. ISBN 9780836826036. Available at 391 LOM on the library shelves.

Following the swinging 1970s, fashion adapted to new materials and designs. The 1980s saw the rise of the supermodel, young and beautiful men and women who showcased the best clothes produced by famous designers. The showing of wealth became ostentatious, with rich people flaunting their prosperity. The world also saw technology enter the fashion world. Items like the cellphone and the pager became fashion accessories. The roles of men also evolved, with more involvement in the family, caring, and sharing.

In the 1990s, fashion moved from the colorful and shiny to the more drab and shabby. Grunge, which evolved out of Seattle, impacted fashion with dark colors, combat boots, and flannel shirts. Simultaneously, girl power with groups like the Spice Girls hit the scene, showcasing female talent and powerful women in a man's world. 

Fashion both followed social evolution and influenced society and as the century came to a close, the best aspects of previous decades became enmeshed in the flavor of clothes circulating.

The 70s: Punks, Glam Rockers, & New Romantics

Gilmour, Sarah. The 70s: Punks, Glam Rockers, & New Romantics. Part of the 20th Century Fashion series. 1999. 32p. ISBN 9780836826029. Available at 391 GIL on the library shelves.

The optimism of the early 1960s was soon replaced by war and social discord as the United States' involvement in the Vietnam War deepened. Civil rights were on the march, an oil crisis debilitated the economy, and marginalized groups found voices to express themselves. Some of this expression came in the form of fashion. 

The 1930s' era of Art Deco returned in force at the beginning of the 1970s, with retro dressing and Hollywood glamour centering on outfits and patterns that were popular at the time. The Orient appealed to those who enjoyed the mystique of the East. Synthetic materials became more widely used, while platform shoes and outrageous hair marked the beginning of glam bands. With the recession crippling Americans' spending power, every fashion paradoxically became more bland as prices were cut to stimulate sales. Workout gear became more prevalent, as lycra allowed form fitting clothes that did not lose their shape. The emergence of disco in the late 1970s added more glitter to youth's fashion, while demin's popularity continued to increase. Finally, the decade closed with punk rockers and renewed interest in leather jackets.

The 60's: Mods & Hippies

Powe-Temperley, Kitty. The 60's: Mods & Hippies. Part of the 20th Century Fashion series. 2000. 32p. ISBN 9780836826012. Available at 391 POW on the library shelves.

The 1950s ended with the beginning of the space age, as both the Soviet Union and the United States placed satellites in orbit. During the 1960s, a space race took place to see who would get to the Moon first. This race saw the creation of new materials to design space suits, and inspired fashion towards the modern and streamlined look. The 1960s also saw the rise of the fight against the establishment, as protests over the Vietnam war erupted on campuses across the United States. Corporate attire came under assault as hippy prints, loose clothings, and the miniskirt appeared on the fashion radar of teenagers.

The rocker look continued to evolve in the 1960s, but was counteracted by the mods, or modernists, who preferred minimalist clothes inspired by jazz musicians. Famous designers such as Coco Chanel and Mary Quant continued to propose clothes inspired by events and by trends, but second hand shops and boutiques suddenly found a market for cheap clothes. Fashion icons from movies and music further influences dress styles in the 1960s, including the Beatles' more and more outlandish outfits and haircuts. 

The 40s and 50s: Utility to New Look

Reynolds, Helen. The 40s and 50s: Utility to New Look. Part of the 20th Century Fashion series. 1999. 32p. ISBN 9780836826005. Available at 391 REY on the library shelves.

With the Second World War in full swing, the beginning of the 1940s feature fashion that is utilitarian, mass produced, and cost effective. The war effort required everyone to sacrifice, and clothes were designed to be useful instead of for their appearance or feel. War uniforms were predominant for men, while many women found themselves working on the home front and needing clothes they could get dirty and not need to clean on a daily basis. Military style influenced the fashion of the time, with bomber jackets soon adopted by young males in the late 1940s and early 1950s. Rationing was everywhere, and fabric for personal use was rare.

The war ended, but rationing continued for years afterwards. This did not stop people from enjoying life once again, and soon dancing and movies were more popular than ever. Clothing became more relaxed, with shorter dresses for women and less formal wear for men. The bikini made its appearance, while rebels without a cause began sporting jeans and t-shirts, instead of plaid pants. 

The 1950s saw an explosion of clothes, as mix and match became the norm. Men and women could now find tops and bottoms and mix them, instead of having to purchase sets. This allowed more flexibility in the way people looked, but also promoted consumerism. The zoot suit emerged from Harlem, just in time to be eclipsed by the rock'n'roll look of the new youth culture. Soda fountains became the rage, and jukeboxes were everywhere, playing popular youth music. Changes in fabrics and the appearance of the first synthetic, nylon, dramatically changed what was possible

The 20s and 30s: Flappers & Vamps

Blackman, Call. The 20s and 30s: Flappers & Vamps. 1999. 32p. ISBN 9780836825992.

With the end of the First World War, young people once again wanted to celebrate being alive. The United States' economy roared back to life as the country expanded and spending returned to pre-war levels. New materials such as rayon and elastics allowed for the creation of new clothes, while the music scene and the silver screen influenced how people dressed and what was deemed fashionable. For women, slim and boyish was popular in the early 20s, while men relaxed their appearance away from the more formal Edwardian-style made-to-order to baggy trousers and off the rack clothes purchases.

Movements such as the jazz age as represented in the Great Gatsby and Art Deco had strong influences on colors and patterns, while the practice of sports became more popular, creating new fashion. The nude look of bare arms, neck, and legs for women was a small revolution in what was previously considered shocking. The Great Depression suddenly ended the excesses of the 1920s, but gangsters continued to ply their deadly trade, and their popularity in movies and in popular culture meant that their look also trickled down into the fashion of the era. 

1900-20: Linen & Lace

Mee, Sue. 1900-20: Linen & Lace. Part of the 20th Century Fashion series. 2002. 32p. ISBN 9780836825985. Available at 391 MEE on the library shelves.

The world was in effervescence at the beginning of the 20th century. Automobiles were filling up roads. The globe was now connected through wires, allowing messages to be distributed almost instantly. Technology was rapidly improving lives. For most, modernity represented progress and better living conditions. But then the First World War destroyed illusions that technology could only be used for the better. By the time the war ended, life had changed for everyone.

Clothes provide an image of society. At the beginning of the 20th century, most women were wearing corsets and several layers under their dresses. Clothes were meant to be seen, and displayed the wealth of person wearing them. As habits changed and marketing and advertisement became more important, clothes had to adapt, from motorist outfits to changing silhouettes and tastes. Styles from all over the world also began to appear in European and American fashion, from those inspired by orientalism to those exotic clothes of the Russian ballet. 

The war strained economies, and fashion became more practical. Uniforms were produced in the millions, and rationing shortened dresses, revealing more leg. After working in factories and elsewhere as men went to war, women had gained economic freedom and learned new skills, and the clothes of the post-war period adapted to this newly-found independence by freeing women from some of the constraints they had experienced during the war and even before. One of the most revolutionary item of clothing to emerge from this period is the bra. Invented by Caresse Crosby from two handkerchief and a ribbon, the bra freed women from the tightening confines of corsets, and allowed a wider variety of clothes to be worn while providing support at a cheaper cost.

Readers interested in the history of fashion or the social changes that affected the clothes we wear will appreciate this short volume.